The gradually increasing voltage I measured confused me. I think I recall that solenoids years ago simply used 12 volts at low current to energize an electromagnet to engage the pinion and connect the high current to run the starter motor. If I pressed the horn switch, the voltage would drop about in half, but not to zero. If I disengaged the emergency brake or engaged the PTO, the voltage immediately went to zero, so I assume the safety switches were not the problem. When I turned it to "start," the voltage went to about 20 millivolts and then gradually rose to about 60 to 70 millivolts and tapered off. With the key off or on the voltage was zero. A red alligator clip lead is on that terminal and is connected to my multimeter. A small blue wire from the wiring harness goes to what looks like a magenta connector. The attached image shows a closeup of the Delco solenoid and part of the starter, with the large red cable from the battery plus three other wires to the same terminal. As a teenager 50 years ago I used to jump the starter on my old rail job, but I hesitated trying that on modern equipment-especially since it was getting a little dark. The power deck lift moves up and down normally. I also noticed that the horn would not blow, but I never use it, and didn't know if it might be defective. Charging the battery and cleaning the battery connections did not help.
Please provide a list of what to look for and how to check so that hopefully I can get this fixed Sunday.My 2006 61" Gizmow ZTR with a Kohler Command Pro 27 engine would not start today. It'll be Sunday before I can perform any of these checks. Regarding the issue of not wanting to restart when hot, is this the same issue or is there something else indicated? What do I need to check for that? If it doesn't close, how do I fix it? Anything else I need to check while I have the adapter off? Should I check the fuel solenoid somehow? If so, how? Piston Slapper, you indicated that these were spring operated. I guess my next step is to remove the donaldson filter adapter from the carb and check the butterfly with the choke on. I did try Restrorob's suggestion about only turning the key far enough to turn the starter on but that didn't help. After about 8 attempts I just stopped trying. I waited about a minute and couldn't get it restarted. About 90 minutes later I was done and turned it off. I was afraid to turn it off until I was done so I didn't. Went to mow today and almost never got it started. I turned it off a few times and restarted without any issues. About 20 minutes later I started it without any problems and mowed the yard. He said he replaced the fuel filter and that one of the plugs had a cracked insulator. The guy started it up (easily) and drove it off the trailer. Ok, I got the mower back from the new shop last week.
Before that, I used 87 with ethanol.īTW, can anyone tell from the engine specs what the amp output might be? Oh, and I've used 89 octane pure gas for 2 years. I don't know how long they will keep it but I'd like to know what they might find.
Since I can't seem to determine the problem, I took it to a new shop Friday. Now I want it fixed.Īfter reading several posts here, many said to be sure the choke is fully closed. Instead of sending it back to the dealer and waiting several more weeks, I just lived with it. Oil, oil filter, fuel filter, air filter and plugs were also changed. Last year the dealer checked it out and said one cylinder needed a new head gasket so it was replaced. Sometimes I run the battery down trying to start it. The engine is very difficult to start and has been for quite some time.
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